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Aluminum storefront doors look straightforward—until you’re the one responsible for the replacement. Narrow stiles limit what can physically fit, high traffic exposes weak choices fast, and “close enough” measurements often turn into returns, downtime, and a door that won’t secure the way it should at the end of the day. That’s why choosing between a deadlatch, a deadlock, or a flushbolt/flushlock isn’t just about security—it’s about matching the hardware to the door’s configuration, existing prep, and real-world usage.

This guide keeps it practical: what each option is best for, where each one commonly fails on storefront openings, and the exact checks that prevent wrong orders. If you’re replacing existing hardware, you’ll be able to make a confident decision without guessing, over-ordering, or discovering at install time that the footprint doesn’t match.

Start Here: The 60‑Second Pick

Most storefront replacements become easy once you answer one question: Is this door being “managed” all day, or does it need to be “secured” at specific times?

• If it’s a busy customer-facing entry, you usually start with a deadlatch because it’s built for daily cycles and consistent latching through traffic.
• If the priority is after-hours security (or the opening is staff-only/service), a deadlock is often the more security-forward choice.
• If the opening is a pair of doors, you’re not just choosing one lock—you’re managing an active leaf and an inactive leaf, which is where flush hardware typically enters the plan.

That’s the direction. Now let’s make sure it’s the right fit.

Deadlatch: The Everyday Storefront Workhorse

A deadlatch earns its reputation on storefront doors because it handles what storefront doors do best: open and close constantly. On many customer-facing entries, the goal is reliability during business hours—smooth operation, consistent latching, and fewer “the door didn’t catch” problems when traffic is nonstop.

If your job is a standard storefront entry replacement, the best way to confirm you’re in the right lane is to compare what you have against the category range and typical functions. A quick look through Storefront Deadlatches helps you verify you’re sourcing from the right hardware family before you narrow down the exact footprint.

Where deadlatches tend to disappoint (and it’s not their fault):   Storefront doors drift over time. A slightly sagging leaf, worn pivots, or a frame that’s just a touch out can cause a latch to “bounce,” fail to hold, or feel rough—even when the replacement is correct. That’s why deadlatch issues are often alignment issues wearing a hardware mask.

Deadlock: When Security Takes Priority Over Convenience

A deadlock is the choice you make when the question becomes, “How secure is this opening when the building is closed?” That’s why deadlocks show up frequently on staff entries, service doors, or higher-risk locations where after-hours protection matters more than quick daytime flow.

This is also where many storefront retrofits go sideways: people order “a deadlock” as a concept instead of matching the existing prep as a reality. The smartest move is to start by confirming you’re sourcing within the right family, then work backwards into fitment. Reviewing Storefront Deadlocks keeps you anchored in the correct category while you verify faceplate profile, mounting pattern, and backset.

Where deadlocks usually fail on retrofits:   Not because the lock is “wrong”—but because the door prep doesn’t match. On storefront systems, the footprint is king. A deadlock that’s perfect on paper becomes a return the moment the faceplate shape or cutout pattern doesn’t line up.

Flushbolt / Flushlock: The Fix for Pairs (and Tight Clearances)

Flush hardware typically becomes relevant the moment you’re dealing with double doors. On a pair, the inactive leaf isn’t just “the other door”—it’s the leaf that must stay aligned and controlled so the active leaf can latch properly day after day. When the inactive leaf floats, the opening gets noisy, inconsistent, and unreliable. Hardware wears faster, and the whole storefront starts to feel “cheap,” even when the door system itself is fine.

Flush hardware also solves a second storefront problem: clearance. On narrow stiles, low-profile solutions matter.

If your opening is a pair, or your existing setup includes low-profile storefront hardware, it’s worth starting your match inside Flushlocks and then narrowing down to what fits your door and use case.

Where flush hardware goes wrong:   Assuming “a flushbolt is a flushbolt.” In storefront work, details matter more than names—cutout size, mounting style, and how the leaf is meant to be operated (and by whom) determine whether the solution stays tight or becomes a constant adjustment.

Why Trim Choice Changes the Result (Even When the Lock Body Is Right)

Storefront hardware is a system. The lock body matters, but the way the door is operated—day after day—comes down to trim. Trim affects user behavior, durability under traffic, and whether the opening feels solid or sloppy after months of use.

On a busy entry, the “best” trim is often the one that keeps motion simple and reduces abuse. On staff-only doors, trim choice often leans toward control and key management. Either way, choosing trim without thinking about users is one of the fastest routes to callbacks.

If you’re replacing the operating side or matching an existing storefront configuration, browsing Storefront Trims is the cleanest way to make sure you’re aligning operation style with the lock family and typical storefront fitment constraints.

The Measurements That Prevent Wrong Orders

This is the part that saves you time, returns, and second trips. Storefront doors don’t forgive guesswork.

Backset and stile limits   Narrow stiles limit options. Even small differences can make a replacement incompatible.

Faceplate profile and mounting pattern   Flat vs radius profiles, faceplate length, and screw spacing matter more than product naming.

Door thickness and existing cutout footprint   On storefront retrofits, the door’s existing prep is the truth. Match it—or plan for door work.

Alignment and reveal consistency   A slightly sagging storefront door can make perfect hardware feel wrong. Fix alignment first if the latch/bolt is fighting the frame.

Cylinder format (when applicable)   Many storefront configurations rely on rim-style formats depending on trim and lock family. If the setup calls for it, comparing options within Rim Cylinders helps you avoid mismatches that show up late—when everything else is already installed.

How to Choose the Right Option (A Simple 5‑Step Method)

1) Decide what the opening must do   Is the goal consistent daytime latching through traffic, or maximum after-hours security? Is this a pair where the inactive leaf must be controlled?

2) Confirm the configuration   Single swing, pair, or sliding changes your path immediately. Don’t spec until you’re sure.

3) Match the prep, not the label   Backset, faceplate profile, screw pattern, and cutout shape decide compatibility.

4) Choose trim for real users   Customer-facing entries need durability and smooth operation. Staff-only doors often prioritize control and key management.

5) Validate engagement before blaming hardware   If the door is drifting or the frame relationship is off, fix that first. Hardware can’t out-perform misalignment.

Common Storefront Problems (and What They Usually Mean)

“Door bounces” and won’t latch   Usually alignment and engagement. Confirm the door isn’t sagging and the strike/keeper relationship is correct.

Lock feels rough or binds   Often door/frame relationship, incorrect faceplate fit, or a mis-matched footprint.

Inactive leaf drifts on pairs   Flush hardware is missing, worn, mis-specified—or the door needs alignment before hardware can behave.

FAQs

Can I swap a deadlatch for a deadlock without changing the door?

Sometimes, but only if the prep footprint matches. Always confirm faceplate profile, mounting pattern, and backset first.

Do I always need flush hardware on the inactive leaf for double doors?

It’s common because it stabilizes the pair and keeps the opening aligned. The exact setup depends on how the opening is used.

What’s the most common reason storefront retrofits fail?

Alignment. A slightly sagging door can make even the correct new hardware perform poorly.

Why Buy Storefront Door Hardware at National Lock Supply

When you’re replacing storefront hardware, the real cost usually isn’t the part—it’s the downtime, the return, and the second trip when something doesn’t match the prep. That’s why it helps to shop by the correct hardware family first (deadlatches, deadlocks, flush hardware, trims, and cylinders), then confirm measurements and function before ordering. National Lock Supply makes that process straightforward by organizing storefront categories around how pros actually source replacements—so you can get to the right type faster, narrow down fitment, and avoid the most common mis-orders on narrow-stile aluminum doors.